Garden notes

Written for people who like plants. Not copied from magazines or nursery catalogues.

Highveld water

Water-saving in a summer-rainfall garden

  • Water in the cool of the morning, deeply and seldom, so roots chase moisture down rather than living in the top two centimetres.
  • Group plants by thirst. One irrigation valve per hydrozone beats a single sprinkler that drowns the aloes to keep the lawn green.
  • Mulch 50–80 mm with untreated chips or leaf litter. Bare Highveld clay bakes, seals and sheds the next thunderstorm.
  • Shrink lawn to the places you actually walk and sit. Replace the rest with indigenous groundcovers, gravel and meadow grasses.
  • Harvest roof water into a tank if by-laws allow, and slow the rest with swales so it soaks rather than jumping the kerb.
  • August is the dangerous month in Pretoria. Established indigenous trees should be almost dry; new plants still need a deep drink every 10–14 days.
  • Check municipal watering rules each season. A beautiful garden that ignores restrictions is a short-lived garden.

Wildlife

How to draw birds into a South African yard

  • Layer the garden: a tree, a fruiting shrub, a nectar plant and a thorny thicket. Birds nest in structure, not in a bowling-green lawn.
  • Plant for winter nectar — aloes, wild dagga, Cape honeysuckle and tree fuchsia keep sunbirds when little else flowers.
  • Leave some seed heads on grasses and wild dagga through late autumn. Weavers and waxbills will find them.
  • A shallow, moving water bowl with a rough stone landing is worth more than a feeder. Change still water daily.
  • Cats and dense exotic hedges are the usual reasons a ‘bird garden’ stays quiet. Provide height and thorny refuges.
  • Skip pesticide as a habit. Caterpillars are not a failure of gardening; they are why a cape robin stays.
  • Figs, wild plum, karee and white stinkwood are long-term bird trees. Plant them where fruit drop will not stain a car.

Groundwork

Highveld soil, honestly

  • Most Pretoria gardens sit on clay, fill or both. Dig a test hole. If water stands for a day, you have a drainage problem, not a plant problem.
  • Compost every season. Chemical fertiliser without organic matter is a sugar rush on hungry clay.
  • Do not bury proteas and fynbos in Highveld clay — they want acidic sand. If you love them, build a raised, lean bed or visit them in the Cape.
  • Keep the original topsoil in a heap when you excavate. Subsoil makes miserable planting mix.

Winter

Frost on the Highveld

  • Cold air drains downhill. The lowest lawn is colder than the stoep. Put tender plants on the high, north-facing side of the house.
  • Cloth and cardboard beat plastic, which sweats and then burns. Cover at dusk, uncover once the sun is on the leaves.
  • Aloes rot from winter wet more often than they freeze. Keep succulents dry in July.
  • Many ‘dead’ plumbagos and wild daggas are only cut back. Wait until September before you declare a funeral.

Turf

Lawn, if you still want some

  • Choose a cultivar that matches shade and wear, then water it as a zone of its own.
  • Raise the mower. Scalped LM lawn in Pretoria is a dust field by August.
  • Edges of indigenous grass (Themeda, Aristida) can replace unused strips along driveways.
  • Never blow clippings into stormwater. They belong on the compost, not in the Crocodile River.

Calendar

A simple Pretoria year

  • August–September: prune frost damage, plant trees, start watering new beds as days lengthen.
  • October–November: the planting window. Storms arrive. Mulch before the first hard rain so soil does not crust.
  • December–February: deadhead, stake, and watch drainage. Do not fertilise lawn into a jungle you cannot mow on a wet week.
  • March–April: last chance for summer perennials to thicken. Reduce irrigation as nights cool.
  • May–July: enjoy aloes and coral trees. Water only what is newly planted. Leave seed for birds.

For species-level cultivation, use the indigenous plant map and the SANBI links there.